Montana Outdoors: Lichens 101

Wolf lichen is one of many common lichens found throughout western montana forests growing on tree trunks and decaying logs and limbs. Adds a pleasing bright green splash to what is so often a mostly dull, drab brown landscape.

Lichens are used birds, insects and mammals for a variety of things including food, shelter and building material.

We (some of us) use lichens for food, drink, dyes, clothing and decorations. Indians sometimes warded off starvation dining on lichens; pets have been fed lichens for similar reasons.

Some lichens, such as wolf lichen, are poisionous. Wolf lichen got its name from Europeans who mixed it with glass to poison (kill) wolves.

  Wolf lichen didn't kill this elk but another lichen Byoria sp. did kill several elk recently in Wyoming. Curious since antelope routinely eat the same lichens with no ill-effects whatsoever.

Ringbilled gull soaring above Clark Canyon yesterday made for an interesting shot to play around with in Lightroom. And yes, no doubt ringbilled gulls would not know a wolf lichen from a wolf...

The unsettled weather of late has not done much for my fishing but it sure does make for some interesting photo ops...Enjoy.

Montana Outdoors: Dry and Warm Winter

...so far; makes for easy sleddin' and a few surprises along the way.

Apparently this beaver is enjoying the string of 40 degree plus afternoons as much as we are; you know sort a like munching lunch on the deck and catchin a few rays in the bargain...Now if wind the gods would just take a break...

Wonder if this young mule deer buck realizes by now he'd more than likely be belly deep in snow...belly deep in grass, end a January...c'mon.

OK, no secret bald eagles go to housekeeping early but January...no way...like Gale says, probably not settin' just restin'...I'll buy that...

Might be near 50 above in the p.m but as you can see in the a.m. at least up Browne's Bridge on the Big Hole still a might chilly...

Ice and a bit a snow in the shady spots along Moose Creek in the Humbug Spires but out where the sun shines...I rest my case.

Wolf Video Opens A Large Can of Worms And...

...And gets me a few hate mails and one ugly comment from "Anonymous" who apparently lacks the IF to sign it...So be it, as someone once mentioned, "we all have our opinions and the right to speak 'em...But to all you "Chuck" haters let me point out:

• "I" DID NOT produce or have a thing to do with the video.
• "I" of course DID draw my own conclusions and posted the video so faithful followers of this blog could in fact draw theirs.
• No one, especially you "haters," have a clue where I stand on the wolf issue, in whole or in part.

So in the interest of enlightenment...

• Fact is I happen to like wolves--i.e. wolves managed biologically NOT politically.
• I DO NOT like it that the Greater Yellowstone wolf population has been allowed to grow to what most biologists consider way over the top numbers; for all the wrong reasons I might add.
• I DO NOT appreciate the politics which allow folks from around the globe to dictate policy which should be solely left to the biologists, the folks left to deal with wolves and those most affected by them; that judges, who have NO biology credentials whatsoever are allowed to have the final say.
• I DO NOT cotton to the idea, once the moose are all but gone, the elk have disappeared and/or fled to safer pastures hard working ranchers are left to "supply" cows to feed the hungry wolves; a deal which of course they DID NOT sign on in the first beginning.
• And I could go on and on enlightening but then like I said, we all have our opinions, these are just a few of mine...PS keep on sending the hate messages but please do let me know just who the hell you are..over and out...Chuck

To view the video AND DRAW YOUR OWN CONCLUSIONS please click on http://cryingwolfmovie.com/or check it out on You Tube...

Enough Grim Flood Stuff, eh? Let's Kick Back and Enjoy Some Good Stuff...

For a Change...

Rain, snow, sleet, hail no matter, you can bet ringneck roosters will be struttin their stuff come spring...

Pussy willows are a sure sign spring has sprung, livening up any visit stream-side no matter how high the water...

Wyoming ground squirrels must jump for joy amid all that fresh greenery after enduring yet another upper Big Hole nasty winter...

Gumbo evening primrose seems to further disprove the theory "sagebrush ain't nothin' but empty, lifeless, worthless wasteland..."

Believe it or not but many antelope bucks start laying out and defending breeding territories as early as March... for the uninitiated breeding usually peaks around mid-September.

Because of all the snow by the time we made it into the mountains many shootingstars  were already wilted...obviously this one we shot just a couple days ago beside Fish Trap Creek is a late bloomer...

Montana Gone Wild...

Montana got grizz...

...apparently hell-bent on savagin our hunters in retaliation for past abuses wreaked upon cousin blacky...

http://fwp.mt.gov/news/newsReleases/fishAndWildlife/nr_0267.html

...And black bears dashin about the runways of our International Airports...

http://www.greatfallstribune.com/article/20110524/NEWS01/105240312/Black-bear-removed-from-airport

...and mountain lions lazin about the front porch terorizin innocent capitol city housewives...

http://helenair.com/news/article_dfbab480-86db-11e0-945a-001cc4c002e0.html

...and wolves invadin our backyard hell bent on killin our huntin dogs...

http://www.ravallirepublic.com/news/local/article_f1a4e83a-85a7-11e0-8565-001cc4c002e0.html

...and illegal alien, disease-ridden bison spewin outta Wyomin threatenin to wipe out our cows...

http://billingsgazette.com/news/state-and-regional/montana/article_a50d1bba-81cd-11e0-81de-001cc4c03286.html

...and grizz beaten the crap outta horrified hikers evidently for no better reason than to prove a point...

 http://www.bozemandailychronicle.com/news/article_ff41c2c8-8012-11e0-9d06-001cc4c002e0.html

...that bein you tread on my turf you gonna find yore sorry ass a painin somethin awful...

The title says it all, eh?...I rest my case.

Montana Wildlife Continue to Grab Headlines

• 
  
  Eight bighorn rams, ages 3 1/2 to 8 1/2, dead after being struck by lightning on Wild Horse Island in Flathead Lake.
• 
  
  Grizzlies spotted grazing a wheat field near Brady, a small farming community 50 miles north of Great Falls. Hardly your typical griz hangout but one not so uncommon  as the Rocky Mountain Front grizzlies have been spotted in recent years even farther out on the high plains. Which, by the way, back in Lewis and Clark days was the horrible bears' preferred habitat.
• 
  
  In Red Lodge a black bear is currently on the most wanted list, having eluded capture despite some 20 break-ins in recent weeks. The last incident the bear was caught (not literally) inside a house munching pizza after breaking into a freezer. Comical, eh?
• 
  
  FWP is investigating reports a wildlife photographer may have been baiting grizzlies near the forest service campground outside Cooke City where the recent maulings took place. If true, proving yet again there's a bunch of nuts out there and they ain't all locked up...right? Right.
• 
  
  In something of a radical move to get around the recent return of the Idaho, Montana, Wyoming gray wolf to endangered status state wildlife officials are considering a "research hunt"...Hooray, and take that you whacky bastards...
• 
  
  Pathetic but saddly true, YNP announced July's vistor numbers set an all-time record at 957,000...Sorry folks, but to my twisted way of thinkin' that's just way too many of us to even think about enjoying anything close to a quality experience. Do you suppose just maybe the time has come to cap the daily onslaught at something a bit more reasonable? 

Travel: Beaverhead Deerlodge National Forest

Each spring as soon as the roads in the BNF are passable we head to one of the many tributaries of the Big Hole to fish...at least that is Plan A. Many times, especially early on high water cancels the fishing and forces us to switch to Plan B...basically this involves nothing more complicated than taking a hike...poking around would be another way of putting it.

As this photo shows the ongoing pine beetle infestation is taking a terrible toll. One that will change the look of the forest for many decades...way more than we have left. With no end in sight and essentially no way of stopping it until it runs its course...however long that is...many millions acres forest stands to be lost. Aside from the obvious loss scenery-wise a wildland fire starting at the wrong time and place...well, it could really be something. 

I can't tell you how many trout have grabbed our flies in this little crick over the many years we've known it but...a bunch doesn't begin to tell the tale. Even with it raging as we found early this spring still all it usually takes is a couple swings of a soft hackle or a few drifts of whatever dry happens to suit our fancy at the moment.

Once runoff ends Annie can easily hop across this crick just about anywhere. Even shakers have no problem finding a narrow enough spot to step across. Like the one pictured above it too holds more trout than you can shake the proverbial stick...brook, rainbow, rainbow/cutthroat hybrids and even the occasional pure strain cutthroat...at least that's how we call 'em...biologists of course disagree...but hell, if it quacks like a duck...

Twin Lakes in the west Big Hole is among the prettiest lakes around. Although from our point of view one of the lousiest fishin' holes around. I think I might have once had a tug but then again that could be just an old man's vivid imagination. I know for sure have never landed a single trout here...supposed to hold the remnants of a native strain of lake trout and rainbow but like I said can't prove it by me.

The BDNF is so huge it boggles the mind...something like 3.5 million acres. A few days ago we drove 3 hours on the highway to Wade Lake, down below Ennis not far from the 3-Dollar Bridge and just a hop skip and jump from Yellowstone National Park..yep, you guessed it still in the BDNF.

This time around Plan A was to celebrate our Anniversary...29, maybe 39 years but who's counting...In case you wondered the celebration came off without a hitch, while Plan B the fishing...well there wasn't much fishing. But we did get to poke around for a few days in one of the niftiest corners the forest and one thing not lacking was the wildflower viewing...Although due to the weird spring we've been enduring peak wildflower season is still a week or so away...anyway twas a fun time enjoyed by all, ugly dogs included.

This is Wade's sister Cliff Lake just over the hill. Both are part of the so-called Chain of Lakes which includes Elk, Hidden, Goose, Otter and Smith. Unlike most other "chains" these are not anyway connected and a far hike indeed should you want to go end to end...But all are scenic, essentially un-developed, feature some the bluest water on the planet with white sand shallows, and pretty good fishing (bring a boat)...I know better but for reasons I still don't understand failed to act...geezer thinking strikes again...ahhgg 

Good bourbon, good wine, good steaks, great company, like I said, all in all a pretty damn nifty way to celebrate don't you agree...

This guy "did" think to bring a boat...

Three Dollar Bridge on the upper Madison River...

Mama moose and baby just above our campground within sight Wade Lake...

At Least We Didn't Need Snowshoes...

With the big storm now history we decided to head to high country, more out of curiosity how much snow the mountains got than any real idea we might just get to fish...after all that moisture it seemed a given the little cricks would be ragin'. But surprise, surprise despite all--up top around Crystal Park there was still at least 6 or 8 inches and you could plainly see a lot had melted--we found them just about perfect. So naturally after having a look around we rigged up a rod and had at it.

The creek is about as brushed in as creeks get. Wall to wall willow thicket just getting to the water is tough finding room to cast at times a cruel joke. But poke around enough and usually we can find a pool or two and hopefully a willing trout or two waiting to nab our offerings.

We almost always rig just one rod and play it something like "three strikes you're out." Mostly because I was holding the rod when we found the first opening I got first dibs. But several good drifts with a soft hackle failed to interest the pools residents so we plowed on deeper into the brush. The next pool looked really good but with all the brush I could not get a decent drift so again we moved on...

The third pool proved to be the proverbial charm. Pitching the soft hackle upstream and letting it wash into the deep then slowly hand-twisting it in a brookie grabbed it but got off as I was manuvering it around the idiot dogs--bless them for their fishing enthusiasm but today the pair were a royal pain in the you know what. But the next cast another brookie grabbed the soft hackle and this time I managed to land it despite the dogs--hooray! 

Handing the rod to Gale she too landed a brookie and then I took a really skinny rainbow. Enough carnage for one spot we continued on. Switching gears we caught trout on a couple different soft hackles, a bead head fox squirrel nymph and Adams dry fly. Two hours and a mile or so upstream we'd had enough--cold, wet feet (why we didn't put on our hip boots who knows) way more than fed up with the damn dogs, and worn out leaping beaver ditches and willow thickets--called it good. 

Several yellow-bellied marmots, a couple sandhill cranes, one way up the crick at the base of the tall mountains, elk and moose tracks galore in the fast melting wet snow, a couple mule deer, two snipe and...hell, dogs excepted, turned out an OK day after all.

Astonishing Migrations

By the time this hen steelhead completes its spawning run, up the Columbia, Snake and Salmon Rivers to      Stanley, ID it will have traveled 900 miles, negotiated a dozen dams, dodged commercial nets as well as the efforts of countless anglers litterally lurking around every bend. Ditto the Chinook salmon soon to follow. While both runs are but a shadow of what once was--numerous accounts tell of salmon packed in the upper Salmon River such "you could walk across their backs"--and comprised largely of hatchery reared fish still...

Native bull trout have been known to migrate up and down stream nearly 150 miles between home water and spawning sites. While Arctic Grayling have been known to cover 75 miles of river in a few days apparently with nothing more in mind than satisfying an itch to wander.

Pronghorn migrations aren't quite so spectacular and not nearly as long winded but...Consider those spend part of the year in and around Crater of the Moons National Monument in Idaho and the rest of the year about 180 miles east in southwest Montana; or the roughly 300 mile trek the continent's most unique big game animal makes twice a year between southern Alberta and Saskatchewan to the Missouri Breaks country well south in Montana.

Sandhill cranes arrive in Montana each spring having completed the long arduous round-trip from southern New Mexico and Arizona. Recently a radio-implanted long-billed curlew took off from just north of the Missouri Breaks and flew south 1200 miles in just 26 hours!! While each spring tens of thousands of snow geese set down on Freezeout Lake staging for the next leg of their long migration from Texas to beyond the Arctic circle.

Each spring mule deer and elk arrive in the Big Hole having spent the winter up and over the jagged peaks of the Beaverhead Range into Idaho. The mule deer you see this summer in the Wise River country will not likely be there when the shooting starts in mid-October, most having already boogied to winter range over the hill in Idaho.

As spring morphs into early summer songbirds filter into the northern Rockies and High Plains from as far away as Central and South America. Only to wing it south once again with the first hint of fall frost.

Migration is truly astonishing. If you haven't already get out there and bear witness. I doubt you'll be disappointed.

And OK, should you wonder where to start in Montana, why it just so happens that's exactly what my book Great Places Montana is all about. I know I know, shameless self-promotion...what can I say.

Glacier National Park 100 Years and Counting

High, wide and handsome views such as this are a dime a dozen on the spectacular Going-To-The-Sun Highway on the west side of Logan Pass in Glacier NP. Each year thousands upon thousands of tourists flock here to gawk scenics such as this while hoping to catch a glimpse of Ol' Ephriam (not too close thank you). No grizz?  OK, how about a shaggy ol' Rocky Mountain billy goat instead or at least a by god moose or two...

This month the Park is celebrating its 100th birthday. And while we probably won't make the celebration I'll bet the farm our friends, Bert and Janie, will...And for good reasons since Bert spent many years there working as Park Ranger. In fact he was heavily involved in the infamous "Night of the Grizzly;" August 13, 1967 was the night two women were fatally mauled in separate grizzly attacks. Tragic events that were to forever change how bears and people are managed within our National Parks and elsewhere for that matter. For more Google "Night of the Grizzly."

But grizzlies are just the tip of a giant iceberg. All sorts of wildlife live within the Park, including hundreds species songbirds, raptors, waterfowl and shorebirds. Countless wildflowers, some found nowhere else in Montana, thrive in the many diverse climates ranging from relatively low elevation to peaks well over 10,000 feet. Below, by the numbers, are just some of the highlights.

5.11.1910—Glacier officially established as a park

1.2—Million acres
16,000—Square miles of protected land
350—National Historic registered places
131—Named lakes; more than 700 lakes, total
700—Miles of trails
25—Active glaciers
2030—The year scientists predict above mentioned glaciers may disappear
0—The number of permits/licenses required to fly fish within park boundaries

Snowmelt Ponds Attract A Wide Variety Migrating Waterfowl

Each spring snowmelt ponds attract legions of migrating waterfowl and shorebirds. In our area the upper Big Hole is at times nearly wall to wall running and ponded water and every sort of water bird imaginable eventually shows up there. Though viewing wise, yesterday was on the slow side compared to most early spring days.

But still we spied numerous teal, such as this pair of cinnamons as well as blue and green winged, widgeon, pintails, goldeyes, Canada geese, northern shovelers and probably a few ringnecks, although too far out to really make a positive ID. In addition we saw several pairs sandhill cranes (like the water birds not nearly as many as usual), numerous hawks (ferruginous, northern harriers, one redtail, several ospreys) and a couple golden eagles. Songbirds other than ubiquitous robins and redwing blackbirds and non-descript sparrows and such (non-descript in that we did not take time to ID) were also for some unknown to us reasons in short supply also. Maybe too early who knows? Ravens and magpies were of course everywhere and so were antelope, most of which, especially in the morning, were on the move. Though we didn't see any elk we did spy several big bunches of mule deer. Add one pile fresh moose turds not far from Miner Creek and as you can see the day weren't all bad.

Still too early for a real wildflower show but we did see sagebrush buttercup and a small penstemon blooming. And while the occasional willow was laden with pussies most were still barren?

Surprising to us the upper Big Hole was not at all as high and off-color as usual. Actually quite fishable but alas we had the dogs along and didn't feel like dealing with the usual chaos their first fishing trip of the year always brings. Maybe next time. 

Big Hole Tour

Yesterday was Gale's birthday--yes, that is all you need to know--so she thought it would be nice to "do the Big Hole loop." Dillon to Wisdom to Divide to Dillon is I think our favorite drive, if not it's right up there. Anyway we timed our arrival in Wisdom (about 60 miles from Dillon) so we could eat lunch at the Big Hole Crossing Restaurant (Gale of course wanted to browse the gallery as well but alas found it closed). Lunch was delicious by the way--we each got the Reuben special and a cup of chicken noodle soup.

It had snowed a skiff overnight, barely enough to make the road wet but the lingering clouds killed any chance to gawk the awesome snow-covered peaks surround the upper Big Hole most of the year. Dull, damp and dreary actually most of the day with just occasional peaks of blue sky and even less sun. But the worst thing was the scary lack of snow--the side roads would have been bare mud if it weren't for the overnight skiff. Below Fish Trap all the way to Dillon the hills, at least the south facing slopes were nearly snow free.

Perhaps the biggest surprise was the lack of wildlife--I think we saw a single bald eagle, a handful of geese and ducks and that was it. Although judging the tracks around Squaw Creek a sizeable elk herd is overwintering there--no doubt because of the lack of snow.

Another surprise was finding the river mostly open already below Jerry Creek--low and clear you might scrape bottom some but still floatable--not too many years you can say that in early March.

We let the dogs out below Melrose (Browne's Gulch) and kicking up dust for cripes sake,hiked a two track back into the hills--lots of prickly pear not much critter sign--a few antelope tracks and jack rabbit turds was about it. For such an empty spot, miles and miles of nothing running up into the east Pioneers (except for the highest peaks mostly bare ass as well)sure ain't much out there.

All and all a nifty way to wile away a birthday--I think Gale would agree despite the Crossing Gallery closed--and since it's snowing this morning pretty good in Dillon maybe just maybe the Big Hole high country is getting dumped on at last...now there's a really nifty thought.

Montana's Wildlife Legacy:A great, informative read.

Whether you hunt or just enjoy watching or photographing Big Sky Country's incredible wildlife you need to get a copy of Montana's Wildlife Legacy, Decimation to Restoration, by Harold Picton and Terry Lonner, published in 2008 by Media Works Publishing, Bozeman, MT.

I found it difficult to put down. Page after page told the fascinating tale of how this species or that was literally pulled from the ashes and in most cases returned to viable, huntable populations in just a few years. With beginnings way back in the early 1900s all the way to the present we owe a helluva lot to a relative handful, dedicated, hard working folks. Thanks to them and their relentless drive despite being faced with what must have seemed at times daunting, nearly impossible hurdles just about every critter Lewis and Clark stumbled onto remains today--and in decent numbers.

Of all the big game species many of which are so common they've become almost ho-hum only moose and woodland caribou were not physically trapped and widely transplanted; wise, sound wildlife management painted the finishing touches. Elk and antelope are good examples. From the brink of extinction both now occupy nearly every suitable piece of habitat east to west, north to south. As late as the 1940s mule deer were found only in isolated pockets east of the western mountains; today the long-ears are found in huntable numbers in every one of our 56 counties.

Big game, furbearers, predators, upland game birds all with a unique story to tell and the authors have done a thorough job of digging them up and telling in fine fashion.

Get this book, you won't be sorry, guarandamnteed.

FWP Approves Montana's First Bighorn Management Plan

FWP Commissioners approved what seems to me a much overdo state-wide management plan for bighorn sheep. Biologists say about 5700 bighorns in 45 herds scattered across the state could be expanded by as many as 1000.

As with just about everything involves Montana wildlife, or anything else for that matter, the news received enthusiastic boorahs from some and loud boos from others; still others on both sides the fence took a more cautious wait and see approach. No news there, eh?

The biggest hurdle to expanding the bighorns' range is the very real hazard the wild sheep come in contact with domestics--which carry a lung infection fatal to wild sheep but harmless to the carriers. Wool growers are of course concerned about losing public land grazing leases. But there is a line in the plan says FWP will not lobby federal land managers to remove domestics to enable bighorn expansion unless ranchers involved are on board. Quentin Kujula, FWP's biologist point man on such issues says, "Without that collaboration expansion is pretty much dead in the water in most cases."

The Safari Club has gone on record as feeling the plan does little but maintain the status quo...in other words hardly worth the paper it's printed.

John Helle, major domo Dillon wool-man, says, "We're not opposed to wild sheep just the propaganda and attempts to remove us from lands we've been ranching for generations.

Jim Weatherly, Montana Wild Sheep Foundation, basically approves the idea, adding concerns for needing rancher approval are largely unfounded since given how much land they control expansion is impossible without it.

And the beat goes on...

Looking For Sick Bighorn Sheep

HAMILTON - FWP Biologists and volunteers combed the hills of the East Fork of the Bitterroot on Wednesday in an effort to slow the spread of disease killing bighorn sheep. Of the eight collected all were dead or dying of the pneumonia-like disease.

This is the first time culling has been tried in Montana.

Dieoffs have occurred often in bighorn sheep and in the past nothing was done and dramatic die-offs in the 60-80% range resulted. Over the past several weeks biologists and others have collected about 40 of the estimated 200 in the herd.
Other volunteers are checking the bighorn herds in the West Fork and Skalkaho drainages.

The dead sheep were delivered to a mobile state wildlife laboratory where researchers took tissue, blood and fecal samples.

While the cause of the die-offs remains controversial, researchers at Washington State University have pretty much concluded domestic sheep are the culprits…obviously conclusions sheep-men don’t agree. But a die-off almost 30 years ago in the East Fork was pretty much proven to have started when domestic and bighorn sheep mixed together on state land.